Glossary of Terms
Jumping in to the world of apparel or promotional item decoration can be overwhelming with unfamiliar terminology. Below is an ever-updating, alphabetized glossary of terms that you may find helpful!
Last Updated: March, 19th, 2017
1x1 Rib: This narrow rib has a soft, fine hand and retains its slim fit.
2x1 Rib: KnitTextured rib knit with a comfortable stretch—made to be worn alone or layered. 2-Way Zipper: A zipper with two zipper pulls so the garment can be unzipped from either direction. 3-in-1 Zipper: A jacket that consists of two jacket layers that zip together. You can wear either jacket layer separately, or zip them together for extra warmth and weather protection. 4-Needle Stitching: A finish commonly used on a sleeve or bottom hem that uses four needles to create parallel rows of visible stitching, giving the garment a cleaner, more finished look, as well as adding durability. 4-Way Stretch: A fabric that stretches both on the crosswise and lengthwise grains of the fabric. Also called mechanical stretch, except mechanical stretch doesn't use spandex or other stretch yarns.
Air Jet Yarn: A type of open-end spinning that uses a stationary tube in which jets of air are directed to cause fibers to twist thereby forming a yarn. This process definitely influences the soft hand feel of the fabric while maintaining excellent resistance to pilling. All-Weather Microfiber: Fabric that is tightly woven from an extremely fine poly thread with a sueded finish for a luxuriously supple feel. When combined with waterproof coating and full seam sealing, microfiber is 100% waterproof. 100% polyester. ANSI: The American National Standards Institute (ANSI) is an organization that promotes standards for industry and government. ANSI Class 2: An ANSI designation for garments that are intended for activities where greater visibility is necessary during inclement weather. It also covers workers who perform tasks that divert their attention from approaching traffic or puts them in close proximity to vehicles traveling 25 mph or higher. ANSI Class 3: An ANSI designation for garments that provide the highest level of visibility and are intended for workers who face more serious hazards than Class 2. Antimicrobial: A term used for a garment that is able to resist, either naturally or chemically, the effects of microbial secretions put off by the human body, resisting odor and increasing garment life. Anti-Pill Finish: A treatment applied to garments primarily to resist the formation of little balls on the fabric’s surface due to abrasion during wear. See Pilling. Arc Rating: A value of the energy necessary to pass through any given fabric to cause with 50% probability a second-‐ or third-‐degree burn. This value is measured in calories/cm2. Simply put, the Arc rating determines the protective characteristics of the fabric. The higher the Arc rating value, the greater the protection. Articulation: A design detail usually in the shoulders, elbows or knees where limbs bend to increase mobility for greater ease of movement. Athleisure: The movement where clothing designed for athletics is worn outside the gym to the office or to socialize. ATPV: Stands for Arc Thermal Protective Value: a rating of the Arc burn protection capability of a garment. The higher the Arc rating, the more protection a garment gives because it has a higher resistance to catching on fire. The ATPV is expressed in calories/cm2 and represents the thermal exposure from an electric arc that will create a second-degree burn in human tissue.
Baby Pique Knit: A knitting method that creates a fine, small textured surface that appears similar to a very small waffle weave. See Pique Knit. Back Yoke: A piece of fabric that connects the back of a garment to the shoulders. This allows the garment to lay flat and drape nicely. Bartack: To reinforce a seam with a bar of stitches, providing a more durable seam end. Commonly used at stress points. Base Layer: Worn next to the skin, a base layer wicks sweat and keeps the wearer drier and more comfortable. Bias Cut: A technique used by designers for cutting clothing to utilize the greater stretch in the “bias” or diagonal direction of the fabric, thereby causing it to accentuate body lines and curves and drape softly. Birdseye Jacquard: A small geometric pattern with a center dot knit into the fabric. Blanket Stitch: A decorative stitch often used to finish an unhemmed blanket. The stitch can be seen on both sides of the blanket. Blend: A yarn or a fabric that is made up of more than one type of fiber. Bonded Fleece: Multiple layers of fleece are bonded together to form a higher functioning garment. Bonding: The technique of permanently joining together two fabrics or layers of fabrics together by a bonding agent into one unit. Box Pleat: A single, uniform fold in the center back of a garment to allow for more room and comfort. Breathability: The movement of air from one side of the fabric to the other to keep the wearer comfortable. The breathability rating is typically expressed in a gram measurement of how much vapor a square meter (G/M2) of fabric will allow to pass in a 24-‐hour period (typically, 1,000G/M2 to 10,000000G/M2). Generally, the higher the number, the more breathable the garment. Brushed: A finishing process for knit or woven fabrics in which brushes or other abrading devices are used to raise a nap on fabrics or create a novelty surface texture. Button-Down Collar: Found on many men’s dress wovens, where the collar’s wings can be buttoned to the front of the shirt, minimizing the spread between the wings. Button-Through Sleeve Placket: A small placket located near the end of the sleeve, by the cuff, which contains a single button closure.
CamoHex (Sport-Tek): A sublimated digital camouflage that uses small hexagons in a tonal pattern. Carded Ring Spun Cotton: Carded yarns have not been combed. They contain a wider range of fiber lengths and, as a result, are not as uniform or as strong as combed yarns. Casual Microfiber: Tightly woven fabric from a very fine polyester thread, usually with a sueded finish for a soft feel. Inherently water repellent and wind resistant due to its construction. 100% polyester microfiber. Category 2 Protection (Bulwark): Arc-‐rated flame‐resistant (FR) long sleeve shirt and FR pants or FR coverall with a required minimum ATPV (Arc Thermal Protective Value) of 8 cal/cm2. Cationic Polyester: A type of polyester fiber that takes deep and brilliant colors without bleeding or fading. Cationic polyester optimizes printability. Chambray: A plain woven fabric that can be made from silk or manufactured fibers, but is most commonly cotton. It incorporates a colored warp and white filling yarns. Chin Guard: A fold of soft fabric around the end of the zipper that helps prevent abrasion. Also known as a zipper garage. Coil (OGIO): A metallic colored coil zipper. Collar: The upright or turned-‐over neckband of a coat, jacket or shirt. Collar Stand: On a woven shirt, the collar stand is around the neck and placed between the actual collar and the shirt. This stand raises the collar so its finished edge will fall smoothly back over the neck edge. Colorfast: A dyed fabric’s ability to resist fading due to washing, exposure to sunlight and other environmental conditions. Combed Ring Spun Cotton: A process by which the short fibers of a yarn are removed and the remaining longer fibers are arranged in parallel order for a high-‐ quality yarn with excellent strength, fineness and uniformity. Cool Mesh™ Technology: Similar to a pique knit but with a more open texture for increased breathability. Features a soft hand for better comfort. Cord Locks: A stopper or toggle on a drawcord that keeps the cord from retracting into the garment. Corduroy: A cut filling pile cloth with narrow to wide ribs. Usually made of cotton, but can be found in polyester and other synthetic blends. Cotton: Soft vegetable fiber obtained from the seedpod of the cotton plant. Cotton Count: A measure of thread density. It is the amount of thread measured in “hanks” (840 yards) needed to create one pound. With this system, the higher the number, the finer the yarn. In the United States, a cotton count between one and 20 is referred to as course counts. A regular single knit t-shirt can be between 15-18 count and a fashion tee is usually in the 30-40 count range. Cotton Jersey: Alternative’s cotton jersey is made from 100% washed cotton for a distinctly soft, beautifully simple product that is rich in color and velvety smooth to the touch. Cotton Modal: By using a self-sufficient process and extracting the finest fibers from beechwood forests, Alternative created an environmentally friendly fabric that is twice as soft as conventional cotton. Coverseamed: A finish in which two needles are used to create parallel rows of visible stitching. It is used around the neck, armholes, waistband and wrists of garments to create a cleaner, more durable finish. Cuff: The part of the sleeve encircling the wrist. Also the turned-back hem of a trouser leg.
Deboss: To depress below the surrounding fabric surface for decoration or lettering. Often confused with embossing which is to raise in relief from a surface. Denier: A system of measuring the weight of a continuous filament fiber. The lower the number, the finer the fiber; the higher the number, the heavier the fiber. District Fit: District has a slim fit that is close to the body. The styles have shorter sleeves and tighter and higher armholes than District Made. District Made Fit: District Made has a comfortable fit with a relaxed waist. The styles have a longer sleeve and relaxed and lower armholes than District. Dobby: A decorative weave, usually geometric, that is woven into the fabric. Standard dobby fabrics are usually flat and relatively fine or sheer. Dolman Sleeve: A sleeve tapered from a very large armhole to fit closely at the wrist. Usually cut in one piece with the body of the garment. Double Knit: A circular knit fabric knitted via double stitch on a double needle frame to provide a double thickness. Double-Needle Stitching: A circular knit fabric knitted via double stitch on a double needle frame to provide a double thickness. Down: The soft, fluffy under feathers of ducks and geese. Serves as an excellent outerwear thermal insulator. Dri-FIT (Nike Golf): Fabric that helps keep the wearer comfortable and dry by moving perspiration from the skin, through the layers of fabric, to the outside layer for rapid evaporation across the outer surface area. Dri‐Mesh® Polyester: The double layer mesh construction releases heat and sweat, while maintaining breathability. 100% polyester double mesh. Drop Needle: A knit fabric characterized by vertical lines within the cloth. Manufactured by dropping a needle from the knitting cylinder. Drop Tail: A longer back than front for the purpose of keeping the shirt tucked in. Also referred to as Extended Tail. Dry Zone® Technology: A double-‐layer polyester fabrication that wicks moisture away from the body. Duck Cloth: Tightly woven, plain-weave, bottom-weight fabric with a hard, durable finish that provides wind and snag resistance. DWR: Durable water repellent. A DWR treatment involves applying a coating to a jacket’s outermost fibers to prevent precipitation from saturating the jacket's exterior. Dyed-to-Match: A term which characterizes buttons or trims that are the same color as the garment onto which they are sewn.
Eco-Jersey: This classic medium-weight jersey features a signature vintage-soft feel and is made from eco ingredients, including recycled polyester, organic cotton and rayon yarns. Eco-Fleece: Alternative’s iconic medium-weight Eco-Fleece is knit on machines calibrated to replicate a vintage-soft look and feel. EcoSmart® (Hanes): 50/50 cotton/poly blend tees and sweatshirts made with up to 5% recycled polyester from plastic bottles. Enzyme Washed: A laundering process in which a catalytic substance is added to create a chemical change in the fabric resulting in a very soft finish, smoother appearing surface and reduced shrinkage. Epaulet: An ornamental fabric strip or loop sewn across the shoulder of a shirt, dress or coat. Ergonomic: Design elements incorporated into a garment to improve the design by enhancing the wearer’s comfort, performance or health. Etched Tone Buttons: A more upscale horn tone button with an etched pattern. EXCEL FR® ComforTouch® (Bulwark): This practical 88/12 cotton/nylon blend provides long-lasting protection for nearly all work environments. Applications include ferrous metals, electrical utilities and the chemical, oil, gas and petrochemical industries. Every EXCEL FR ComforTouch garment is engineered to provide flame resistance for the life of the garment. Extended Tail: A longer back than front for the purpose of keeping the shirt tucked in. Also referred to as Drop Tail. Extreme Heather: A soft, durable fabric made of a poly/cotton blend. It has a nicely striated, heathered look. Eyelets: Small holes or perforations made in a series to allow for breathability. Finished with either stitching or brass grommets. EZCotton™ Pique: Made from the highest grade of long-‐staple cotton, this fabric has an innovative finish that provides a consistently softer hand, enhanced smoothness, color fastness, wrinkle resistance and shape retention. 100% cotton.
Fill Power: The measure of the loft or "fluffiness" of a down garment that is loosely related to the insulating value of the down. The higher the fill power, the more trapped air an ounce of the down can trap, and thus the more insulating ability an ounce of the down will have. Flame-Resistance (FR): These fabrics and garments are intended to resist ignition, prevent the spread of flames away from the immediate area of high heat impingement and to self-‐extinguish almost immediately upon removal of an ignition source. FR clothing is NOT fireproof. Flat Collar/Cuffs: A single ply fabric with a finished edge that is used for collars and cuffs on sport shirts and short sleeve garments. Also known as welt. Flatlock Stitching: Made by bringing two raw fabric edges together and covering them with machine stitching. Often used in activewear. Flexfit®: Caps that feature a patented technology that weaves spandex into the sweatband and throughout the crown for a superbly comfortable fit. French Cuff: A shirt cuff that is folded back before fastening, creating a double-‐ layered cuff. French Terry Cotton: The knit jersey version of terry cloth. It features loops of pile on one side and a smooth, brushed finish on the other for softness and a lived-‐in, vintage look. Full Cut: Refers to a garment's fit as being generous and roomy. Fully-Fashioned: A garment that’s knitted to fit the shape of the body.
Garment Dyed: A dyeing process that occurs after the garment is assembled. Garment Washed: A wash process where softeners are added to finished garments to help the cotton fibers relax. The result is a fabric with a thicker appearance, reduced shrinkage and a softer hand. Gravel 50/50: Tees made of 50/50 ring spun combed cotton/polyester that are exceptionally soft and colorful. Grosgrain: A firm, closely woven fabric with narrow horizontal stripes. Commonly used for ribbons, neckties and trimmings.
Hand: Quality or characteristic of fabrics perceived by sense of touch—softness, firmness or drapability. Herringbone: A chevron or zig-zag pattern knit into fabric. Commonly used in golf shirts and twill shirts. High-Profile: A term used for a cap or hat silhouette that is less fitted to the head with a high slope. Usually structured with buckram or other stiff fabric lining. Honeycomb Pique Knit: A pique fabric with a waffle or cellular appearance. Hook and Loop: A fastener closure system. The rough side is called the hook. Its softer mate is called loop. The hooks engage into the loop and provide the closure. Colloquially known as VELCRO®. Horn Tone Buttons: Buttons that appear to be manufactured from horn. Houndstooth: A medium-‐sized broken check effect that is knit into the fabric. IL50 (Industrial Laundry): Signifies that a garment has been certified to withstand at least 50 industrial laundry washes. Insulated Jacket: A jacket designed to hold body heat close and buffer surrounding cold air. Down, fleece and synthetic fibers are common insulators. Insulation levels help determine warmth ratings. Interlock Knit: A two‐ply fabric knit simultaneously to form one thicker and heavier ply. It has more natural stretch than a jersey knit, a soft hand, and the same appearance and feel on both sides. Commonly used in knit shirts and turtlenecks. Iridescent Buttons: Buttons with a lustrous, rainbow-‐like hue. Jacquard Knit: Often an intricate pattern knit directly into the fabric during the manufacturing process. Typically, two or more colors are used. Jersey Knit: The consistent interloping of yarns in the jersey stitch to produce a fabric with a smooth, flat face and a more textured, but uniform back.
Kangaroo Pocket: Another name for a front pouch pocket in a sweatshirt or t-shirt. Called a split kangaroo pocket in a full-zip garment.
Linen: A fabric made from linen fibers obtained from inside the woody stem of the flax plant. Linen fibers are much stronger and more lustrous than cotton. Linen fabrics are very cool and absorbent, but wrinkle easily, unless blended with manufactured fibers. Locker Loop: A looped piece of fabric in the neck of a garment for the convenience of hanging the garment on a hook. Can also be located at the center of the back yoke on the inside or outside of a garment. Locker Patch: A semi‐oval panel sewn into the inside back portion of a garment, just under the collar seam to reinforce the garment and minimize stretching when hung on a hook. The patch also allows for the garment tag or label to be sewn below the neckline to help prevent irritation. Low Impact Technology™ (L.I.T.): Enhances the softness and performance of 100% polyester fleece in that the yarns are able to accept dye more readily which uses less water and energy than standard dyeing procedures. Low Profile: A term used for a cap or hat silhouette that is more closely fitted to the head. Can be either structured or unstructured.
Marled Fleece (District): A ring spun cotton/poly fleece. When cotton is marled, each colored ply of yarn is twisted together and then knitted to create one long, continuous piece of yarn. This gives marled fleece its two-toned, mottled appearance. Matte Taslan: A durable and water repellent nylon fabric, used mainly in outerwear garments. Same properties and hand as traditional Taslan, but with a dull, matte finish. Melamine: A highly resistant, exceptionally strong plastic laminate material sometimes used in buttons. Melange: A mix of different colors of yarns knit together to create a heathered effect. Melange Burnout: Alternative’s burnout fabric was the first in the industry, authentically weathered for a worn-in look and feel. Mercerized: The result of a process in which cotton yarn or fabric is immersed in a caustic soda solution and later neutralized with an acid bath. This process increases luster, strength and affinity for dyes. Mesh: A type of fabric characterized by its net‐like open appearance and the spaces between the yarns. Mesh is available in a variety of constructions, including wovens, knits, laces or crocheted fabrics. Microburn®: 75/25 poly/ring spun cotton tees that have a rare blend of shades for an unusually lightweight feel and a one-of-a-kind look. Microfiber: Tightly woven fabric from a very fine polyester thread, usually with a sueded finish for a soft feel. Inherently water repellent and wind resistant due to its construction. Microfleece: Crafted from ultra-fine yarn, this lightweight, high‐density fleece is brushed less than a regular fleece garment for softness and warmth without bulk. Mid-Layer: Worn over the base layer, this layer traps warm air, breathes and helps maintain body heat. Mid-Profile: A term used for a cap or hat silhouette that is in between that of a High Profile and Low Profile. Most often structured with buckram. Mini Rib: Ultra soft 100% combed cotton tees and tanks that have an elevated, superfine rib for excellent shape retention and a flattering, trimmer fit. Modal Blend: A super soft fabric made of a blend of ring spun cotton/modal. Modal is soft, smooth and breathable with a texture similar to cotton or silk. It washes well and resists pilling, so the garment looks better, longer. Modern Stretch Cotton: A breathable fabric made from a blend of cotton and spandex to provide a flattering stretch. 96% cotton. 4% spandex.
Nailhead: A jacquard knitting pattern in which the jacquard forms a design similar to small nail heads. Nap: A fuzzy, fur-like feel created when fiber ends extend from the basic fabric structure to the fabric surface. The fabric can be napped on one or both sides. Neckband: A strip of fabric sewn around the inside of the neck in a woven shirt. Non-Iron: A term characterizing fabric that has been chemically treated to resist wrinkles, eliminating the need for ironing. Notch Lapel: The most common lapel found on blazers. The “notch” is the opening where the bottom of the collar meets the top of the lapel at a 75–90 degree angle. Nublend® Fleece (JERZEES®): A combined knitting and spinning process developed by JERZEES for the prevention of pilling. Nylon: A synthetic fiber with high strength and abrasion resistance, low absorbency and good elasticity.
Open-End Cotton: Open end (OE) spinning is a technology to make yarns without a spindle. OE yarns have less twist but a more uniform, abrasion-resistant surface and are produced at much faster speeds than other spinning technologies. Fabrics made from OE yarns generally have a cleaner appearance, but are less soft than garments made with ring spun yarns. Ottoman: A tightly woven, horizontal raised rib textured knit. Outer Layer: Worn over the base and mid-‐layers, this layer resists water and wind and has comfortable stretch for mobility. Overdyed: A process in which yarn-dyed fabrics or piece-‐dyed garments are put through an additional dye color to create unique colors. Oxford: A fine, lightweight woven cotton or cotton blend fabric with a 2x1 basket weave variation. Typically used for dress shirts.
Patch Pocket: A pocket attached to the outside of a garment. Peached: A soft hand usually obtained by sanding the fabric lightly. Can be achieved with chemical or laundry abrasion. Peak Lapel: Traditionally the most formal of blazer lapels, it’s defined by edges pointing upwards to the wearer’s shoulders. Pearlized Buttons: Buttons that have a pearl-‐colored hue. Perfect Blend®: A 50/50 blend of ring spun combed cotton and poly which makes Perfect Blend tees as good or better than the finest purebred. Perfect Tri™: 50/25/25 poly/ring spun combed cotton/rayon. The undeniably perfect combination of exceptional softness and laid-back style. Perfect Weight® Cotton: This extra-fine gauge 32 singles 100% ring spun combed cotton yarn is known for its lightweight softness. It’s then compacted to 4.3 ounces for long-term durability and shrink resistance. The result is garments that look and feel perfect wear after wear. Pewter Buttons: Buttons that have a dull, metallic hue. Picot: A series of small embroidered loops forming an ornamental edging on some ribbon and lace. Pewter and Horn Tone Buttons: Buttons that incorporate pewter and horn tone. Usually one encompasses the other. Piece Dyed: A dyeing process that occurs when the fabric is in yardage form after it has been knitted or woven, but before the garment is assembled. Pigment-Dyed: A type of dye process used to create a distressed or washed look that results in soft, muted tones and a soft hand. Pilling: A tangled ball of fibers that appears on the surface of a fabric as a result of wear or continued friction or rubbing on the surface of the fabric. See Anti-Pill Finish. PimaCool™ Technology: A blend of Pima cotton and polyester create a soft fabric that offers performance moisture wicking and breathability. 55% Pima cotton. 45% polyester. Pima Cotton: A term applied to extra-long staple cotton grown in the U.S., Peru, Israel and Australia. It can only be grown in select areas where the cotton is fully irrigated and benefits from a longer growing season for a softer, stronger cotton than standard cotton. Pique Knit: A knitting method that creates a fine textured surface that appears similar to a waffle weave. Commonly used for polo shirts. Pit Zips: Zippers placed in the armpits of a jacket to be used for quick ventilation. Placket: The part of the shirt or jacket where the garment fastens or buttons together. Types of plackets include: reverse (generally a ladies styles in which the buttons are on the opposite side of a men’s garment), open (in which there are no buttons or fasteners) and decorative (non‐functioning). Pleat: A flat usually narrow fold made in a piece of cloth by pressing or sewing two parts of the cloth together. Ply: Two or more yarns that have been twisted together. Polyester: A strong, durable synthetic fabric with high strength and excellent resiliency. Low moisture absorbency allows the fabric to dry quickly. Poly-Filled: A warm polyester lining found in the body or sleeves of outerwear. Polypropylene: A very light, highly resistant, thermoplastic resin used to make coatings, packaging and fabrics. Polyurethane Coating (PU Coating): A finish commonly used in winter jackets, rainwear and windwear to offer high performance water resistance, while maintaining the garment’s breathability. Ponte Knit: Ponte knits have the forgiveness of a knit, but the versatility of a woven. They’re very stable with a nominal amount of stretching capability. Popcorn Pique: Alternating rows of baby pique knit and a larger pique knit that resembles small circles knit closely together. Poplin: A tightly woven, durable, medium-weight cotton or cotton blend made by using a rib variation of the plain weave which creates a slight ridge effect. Port Pocket™ Access: A zipper entry pocket that allows the garment to be hooped and embroidered without impacting the inside lining of the garment. PosiCharge® Electric Heather: With a strong all-over single-dye heather pattern, PosiCharge Electric Heather Fleece is the first high-performance fleece to incorporate Sport-Tek’s popular bleed-resistant, color-locking PosiCharge technology. PosiCharge Mesh®: Water-soluble dye process that breaks apart, or ionizes, in the dyeing solution to give off a positively charged colored ion. The cationic ions dye the polyester fibers by linking with the acid groups on the fibers, locking in the color. This results in a better, bleed-resistant, colorfastness. PosiCharge® RacerMesh™: Ultra‐fine 100% polyester flat back mesh that offers unparalleled breathability for superior cooling. PosiCharge technology locks in color and keeps logos crisp. Pre-Shrunk: Fabrics or garments that have received a pre-shrinking treatment. Princess Seams: Short, stitched folds that taper to a point, typically used to shape women’s garments. Print Pro® XP Process: A fleece knitting process developed by Hanes that creates a tighter knit for a better printing surface. PVC: A polyurethane coating that is added to make garments water resistant.
Quilting: A fabric construction in which a layer of down or fiberfill is placed between two layers of fabric, and then held in place by stitching or sealing in a consistent, all-over pattern.
Raglan Sleeves: An athletic cut sleeve set with a diagonal seam from the neck to the underarm. Offers more freedom of movement in comparison with set-in sleeves. Rapid Dry™ Technology: Designed with a unique weave to wick away moisture from the body. Rayon: A manufactured fiber composed of regenerated cellulose, derived from wood pulp, cotton linters or other vegetable matter, with a soft hand. Frequently used for shirts and pants. Reverse Coil Zipper: Unlike the basic coil zipper, a reverse coil zipper doesn't show its teeth from the front. Reverse Placket: When the buttons on a placket are on the opposite side from a men’s garment. Commonly done on women’s styles. Rib Knit: A textured knit that has the appearance of vertical lines. It is highly elastic and retains its shape. Commonly used for sleeve and neck bands. Ring Spun: Yarn made by continuously twisting and thinning a rope of cotton fibers. The twisting makes the short hairs of cotton stand out, resulting in a stronger yarn with a significantly softer hand. Rip-Stop Nylon: A lightweight, wind and water resistant plain weave fabric with large rib yarns that stop tears without adding excess weight. Often used in activewear. Ruching: A French term which means to gather, ruffle or pleat the fabric. Running Stitch: A stitch that is spaced equally, with the underside stitching being half the length of the external side. R‐Tek® Fleece: An exclusive lightweight microfleece with a soft, plush hand and an anti-pill finish to resist pilling. 100% polyester.
Sandwashed: A process in which the fabric is washed with very fine lava rocks or rubber/silicon balls, resulting in a softer fabric with a relaxed look and reduced shrinkage. Satin Jersey: This fabric has the drape and stretch of jersey plus a luxurious satin wash that sets it apart from other soft cotton and makes it noticeably smooth and sleek. Scoop Neck: Characterized by a deep, rounded neckline that is significantly deeper than normal necklines. Typically found on women’s shirts. Sculpted Hem: A hem that is softly rounded for fashion detail and un-tucked wear. Seam Sealing: The process of treating the stitch holes and seams of a garment to prevent leaking and to ensure full waterproof integrity. Self-Fabric Collar: A collar that is constructed from the same material as the body of the garment. Self-Fabric Sweatband: Refers to a panel of fabric at the front of a cap that is constructed from the same fabric as the crown of the cap. Serge: An overcasting technique done on the cut edge of the fabric to prevent unraveling. Set-In Sleeves: Most common style of sleeve, which is sewn into the shoulder seam. Sherpa Fleece: A knit terry fabric that has been brushed and washed to raise the fibers for a fluffy, plush feel. The thick terry loops stay soft and absorbent over time. Side Vents: Slits found at the bottom of side seams, used for fashion detailing, as well as comfort and ease of movement. Silk: A natural filament fiber produced by the silkworm in the construction of its cocoon. The shimmering appearance for which silk is prized comes from the fiber’s triangular, prism-‐like structure, which allows silk fabric to refract incoming light at different angles. Silk is recognized for its fine hand and fluid drape. Silk Touch™: Our silky soft 65/35 poly/cotton pique blend polo that is durable, wrinkle resistant and shrink resistant. (Not to be confused with silk wash which is a finish on 100% ring spun combed cotton tees for exceptional softness.) Silk Touch™ Performance: Our high-‐performance 100% polyester double knit polo that resists snags, wicks moisture and locks in color thanks to PosiCharge® technology. Singles: A term used to indicate the diameter of a yarn. The smaller the number, the thicker the yarn. Slash Pockets: A pocket in a garment to which access is provided by a vertical or diagonal slit in the outside of the garment.
Slub: A lump or thick place in yarn or thread. Soft Shell: A fabrication that bonds an outer shell to a warm fleece or knit layer resulting in a breathable, flexible and comfortable jacket. All our soft shells have laminate for water resistance. Soft Spun Cotton: Soft spun is an open‐end yarn with more twist and a softer exterior to the yarn. The process generally helps lower torque and improve hand feel of the finished fabric. Soil-Release Finish: A fabric treatment that helps a garment release stains in the wash. Soil Resistance: A fabric in which spills and soil easily roll right off. Spandex: A manufactured elastometric fiber that can be repeatedly stretched over 500% without breaking and will still recover to its original length. Sphere Dry (Nike Golf): A patented fabric with a raised bumpy surface that lines the inside of the shirt, which not only creates an appealing athletic-‐inspired texture, but also works like a funnel to draw perspiration from the inside out. The fabric's three-‐dimensional construction also creates air space around the body to reduce cling. Sport-Wick® Fleece: An anti-‐static fleece that provides moisture wicking by releasing moisture from the inner layers. Stain Resistance: A fiber or fabric property of resisting spots and stains. Commonly used for industrial or restaurant uniforms. Stonewashed: A process in which the fabric or garment is heavily washed with lava rocks or rubber/silicon balls, resulting in a softer fabric with a distressed, weathered look and reduced shrinkage. Storm Flap: A piece of fabric that covers and protects an opening, usually a zipper, on an item of clothing. It is designed to add another barrier on more vulnerable parts of the clothing to protect against wind and moisture. Structured: A headwear term referring to a buckram lining used to control the slope of the cap. Sublimation: A type of printing that uses sublimation ink, heat and pressure to transfer an image onto polyester fabric. Sueded: A process in which fabric goes through a brushing process to raise the nap and give the garment a soft hand. Super Heavyweight Fleece: A 12-‐ounce cross-grain heavyweight fleece. 80% ring spun combed cotton. 20% polyester. SuperPro™: Hardworking woven shirts that easily resist soil and wrinkles while releasing stains. Super Slub™: A unique thick-n-thin slub yarn that mingles super style with super value.
Taped Seams: A strip of fabric sewn to the seam of a garment to prevent distortion. In outerwear, taped seams aid in waterproofing. Taslan: A durable and water repellent nylon fabric with a slightly shiny surface, used mainly in outerwear garments. Teklon: A rugged, stronger Taslan nylon that is water repellent. Terra-Tek™ Nylon: Durable and water repellent with a matte finish. Terry Velour: A pile weave cotton fabric with an uncut pile on one side and a cut pile on the reverse side. It has a soft, plush feel and is water absorbent. Commonly used for towels, robes and apparel. Textured Fabric: A blend of polyester, ring spun cotton and rayon that has a vintage look, but the distinctive texture makes it stand out. Tie-Dye: A method of producing patterns by tying parts of the fabric to shield it from the dye. Tri-Blend: A unique, soft blend of poly, cotton and rayon that has heathered look. Tricot: A knit fabric of various natural or synthetic fibers like wool, silk, nylon or polyester having fine vertical ribs on the face and horizontal ribs on the back. Tricot Lining: A very lightweight nylon lining often used in shorts. Triple-Needle Stitched: A finish commonly used on a sleeve or bottom hem that uses three needles to create parallel rows of visible stitching, giving the garment a cleaner, more finished look, as well as adding durability. Tubular Collar: A collar knit in a tube form, so it has no seams. Tuck-In Tails: A shirt constructed so the back hem is longer than the front. This aids in keeping the shirt tucked-‐in during normal activities. Tuck Stitch: Refers to the look of the knit where some stitches are actually under the other stitches. Gives the shirt a waffle weave texture and look. Tulip Hem: Two overlapping pieces of fabric at the hem of a garment which creates the look of a tulip petal. Twill: A fabric characterized by micro diagonal ribs producing a soft, smooth finish. Commonly used for casual woven shirts. Twill Tape: Attached to the inside of the placket for a fashion effect. Two-Ply: A yarn in which its thickness is made up of two layers or strands, adding durability and weight.
Underarm Grommets: Small holes in the armpit area to allow breathability and air circulation. Unstructured: A headwear term referring to a low profile cap with a naturally low sloping crown. No buckram has been added to the crown for structure. UV-Protective Fabric: A term used to refer to a fabric that resists the ability of ultraviolet rays to penetrate the fabric. Protects the fabric from fading and the wearer’s skin from UV rays.
V Patch: A section of material in a V shape that is sewn onto a garment directly under the collar, providing support against stretching the neck opening. Also a style detail. Vents: An opening in a garment which assists breathability and can aid in ease of decoration, allowing the garment to be hooped and embroidered with no visibility on the inside lining of the garment. Some vents are tacked down and are for fashion purposes only. Vintage 50/50: Alternative’s 50/50 fabrication feels unlike any you've ever worn before. Soft and loosely knit for a perfectly worn-in fit, it has a vintage-soft feel that gets better with every wear. Vintage Wash: A specialty wash that gives these 100% ring spun combed cotton tees lighter-than-air softness and extra comfort.
Waffle Knit: A square pattern knit into a garment. Waffle Weave: A square pattern woven into a garment. Waterproof: Keeps outside moisture from penetrating the fabric. The waterproof rating is typically expressed in milliliters (1,000mm to 10,000mm) based on water pressure tolerance over a 24-hour period. Generally, the higher the rating, the higher the waterproof protection. Water Repellant: A fabric’s ability to cause moisture to bead up and roll off a garment. Water Resistant: Keeps the wearer dry in moderate wind and rain. Very breathable, allowing air to pass through while keeping moisture at bay. In extreme or extended conditions, waterproofing is a better solution. Weathered Twill: A special dye process resulting in a softer fabric with a weathered appearance. Welded Pockets: The technique by which seams are affixed to one another without stitching. Welt Collar/Cuffs: A single ply fabric with a finished edge that is used for collars and cuffs on sport shirts and short sleeve garments. Also known as flat knit. Wind Shirt: A typically water and wind resistant outerwear piece. Popular for golfers. Wind Resistant: The ability of a fabric to act against or oppose the penetration of wind or air, without being completely windproof. Wickability: The ability of a fiber or a fabric to disperse moisture and allow it to pass through to the surface, so that evaporation can take place. Wicking: Dispersing or spreading of moisture or liquid through a given area by capillary action in a fabric. Wood-Tone Buttons: Buttons that simulate a wood appearance. Wool: Usually associated with fiber or fabric made from the fleece of sheep or lamb. The term wool can also be applied to all animal hair fibers, including the hair of the Cashmere or Angora goat or the specialty hair fibers of the camel, alpaca, llama or vicuna. Woven: Fabric constructed by the interlacing of two or more sets of yarns at right angles to each other. Woven fabrics are commonly used for dress shirts and camp shirts.
Yarn Dyed: A term used when yarn is dyed prior to the weaving or knitting of the garment.
Viscose: A derivative form of rayon fabric or fiber made from viscose. Yoke: A part of the garment fitted closely to the shoulders. Typically seen on the back as on a dress shirt, but may also be on the front, as on a Western style shirt.
Zipper Garage: A fold of soft fabric around the end of the zipper that helps prevent a scratched or irritated chin. Also known as a chin guard.
When it comes to bringing your project to life, the importance of who you choose to work with can not be overstated. The team at South Shore Customs is not only committed to providing a fast and affordable service, we also stand by our craft as artists who are invested heavily in creating the highest quality products for our clients. Have questions about process or pricing? Want to get started on a project? Speak with one of our knowledgeable team members today.